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Starting over in Dubai

Writer's picture: Stephan Rinke-MokayStephan Rinke-Mokay

# 2: Transportation, Accomodation, Food - Living amongst the rich on a small budget


Dubai Marina, one of the most popular parts of Dubai, at sunrise


Expensive cars, luxurious apartments, five-star hotels, fancy restaurants, breathtaking entertainment, and excessive partying—this is what Dubai might look like from the outside. However, the majority of people are not rich. They experience this rapidly growing metropolis from a different perspective—one that might remain hidden from tourists. So what is it like to live in Dubai with limited financial resources?


First of all, to answer perhaps the most important question: I have found that I can live in Dubai on about 1,000 Euros per month, including all costs. Can everyone do that? Of course, but it means living very frugally—without your own apartment, a car, spending little on leisure activities, and being generally resourceful. Could you survive on less? Yes, and many people in Dubai do, often due to a lack of options. It turns out that many things in Dubai are cheaper than in Germany, and only a few are more expensive. Let me elaborate...

 

Transportation and Traffic

Airports

When looking for flights to Dubai, you can choose from various options. Currently, the largest airport is Dubai International in the north. However, over the next few years, the plan is to shift all traffic to Al Maktoum International in the south, with the goal of turning it into the largest airport in the world. Other options include airports in the neighboring emirates of Sharjah and Abu Dhabi, both of which are conveniently located within driving distance of Dubai.


Ticket prices vary greatly depending on the season. Generally, the warmer half of the year, from April to September, is considered the low season. With temperatures regularly exceeding 40°C, it is not the most welcoming time for tourists. Additionally, locals with the means to travel often do so during this period, and schools are closed for two months in July and August. Consequently, everything related to tourism—accommodation, flights, and activities—tends to be cheaper. However, the city is not at a standstill, so if you can manage the heat, visiting during the summer can be the most cost-effective option. Despite the intimidating temperatures, air conditioning is standard in all buildings, including the metro, and you’ll spend only minimal time outside.


A familiar sight during the summer: due to high temperatures and humidity, windows cooled by air conditioning fog up on the outside


As a side note, despite its reputation for low taxes, living in Dubai comes with numerous fees, as most things are not free (and how could they be without taxes?). Nevertheless, I appreciate that there are no noticeable price differences when purchasing something at a metro station or at the airport. At the latter, you can still get a bottle of water for 1 AED, about 0.25 Euros.


Public Transportation

Dubai has a modern metro system that runs primarily along the coast. It is fully automated, with no conductors, and waiting times at any station are usually short. The trains are clean, partly because eating and drinking—even chewing gum—is strictly forbidden. For tickets, there are two classes: silver and gold. Silver is the standard class, while gold class is an upgrade that costs twice the regular price and offers more comfort. Each metro train also has a section reserved for women and children for good reasons. Although the metro is generally reliable and convenient, it can be a nightmare during rush hour when the trains are overcrowded, and conflicts may arise. The two major rush hours are in the morning, from the north (Deira) to the south, and in the evening, the reverse. During these times, it is advisable to avoid the metro. Generally, the metro system is too small for the demand, which is why new stations and lines are under construction. This limitation means that only destinations close to metro stations are easily accessible, while locations further inland are much harder to reach.


The metro stations (here: DMCC) with their iconic shapes are landmarks and serve as a central part of the infrastructure


The biggest advantage of the public transportation system is its affordability. The longest distances, from north to south reach 30 to 40 kilometers, with a maximum price of 7.50 Dirhams (AED) per trip, just under 2 Euros. Shorter trips are even cheaper. For those who use public transportation regularly, it is advisable to get a rechargeable card, as purchasing a ticket without it incurs an additional fee each time.


Metro stations are an integral part of the infrastructure, not only because of the metro but also because they are connected to tram and bus stations, as well as taxis. Additionally, most lines run next to major highways and serve as the only option for crossing them, acting as bridges. Almost every station has free, clean toilets and stores that sell food.


A rare sight: an empty metro


There are two further downsides to the metro. Surprisingly, given the restlessness of a place like Dubai, there is no service between midnight and 5 a.m., which forces people to use taxis at night. Additionally, while the system generally runs smoothly, it is prone to disturbances. For example, rain—though rare—can cause flooding of certain stations, rendering them unusable for some time.


The Emirates Tower metro station at night


For reaching destinations too far from the metro stations, several bus lines are available. However, due to the vast distances and heavy traffic, taking the bus can be time-consuming.

In addition to the metro, a monorail connects the Palm Jumeirah to the rest of the infrastructure, and a tram offers several options for traveling through Dubai Marina, one of the most popular parts of Dubai. All public transportation options can be used with the same tickets.


Buses are common, but travelling with them takes a very long time


Taxis

As with any major city, taxis are an important part of transportation in Dubai. Compared to German prices, however, they are much cheaper, making the decision to take a taxi rather than walk through the heat an easier one. Although I can't directly compare prices since I never used taxis in Germany, my estimate is that taxis in Dubai are 50 to 70% cheaper based on my knowledge. The main reasons for these lower prices are the lower wages of the drivers, cheaper fuel, and the cars themselves, due to lower taxes.


All taxis I have seen so far are from Asian brands such as Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi, or Hyundai. While taxis can be hailed on the street in a traditional manner, it is more common in Dubai to order them online via an app. Sometimes, it can be challenging to catch a taxi spontaneously since they may already be reserved. Using the app usually provides the lowest possible rate. I recommend using an official taxi because every driver is required to be identifiable, with their name and license number on display, making cheating almost non-existent.


There is only a handful of taxi companies in Dubai. The colors of the roofs of the cars indicate to which provider they belong


Additionally, there is a system of semi-official taxis that are not easily recognizable as such. I have not fully understood how they operate, but I assume shuttle services might be involved. These taxis are not bound by official rates and are usually more expensive, likely targeting tourists who are unfamiliar with the pricing. Finally, while private drivers might offer rides, I suggest avoiding them due to the lack of accountability and uncertainty regarding their rates.


Traffic

Although it's somewhat of an oversimplification, it's generally safe to say that those who can afford it opt for a car rather than using public transportation. Despite the city's wide and well-maintained roads, traffic jams in certain areas are common, making travel times unpredictable. Some major roads have tolls, known locally as Salik tariffs. While I find driving here relatively straightforward, many people describe it as stressful and unpredictable. As with other aspects of life in Dubai, traffic rules are strict, and violations can be costly. Although police presence is rare, cameras are everywhere, so receiving a traffic fine via email can be quite surprising. In many places, parking is not free and must be paid for in advance via an app.


Despite their size, some roads are prone to traffic jams at certain hours of the day


Compared to Germany, gas is relatively cheap, costing about half as much. Additionally, gas prices remain stable for several days and do not fluctuate as frequently as in Germany, making them more predictable. Due to lower taxes, buying a car in the UAE is also cheaper than in Germany. Car rentals are particularly affordable, with rates as low as 300 Euros per month. Even renting a car on a daily basis is inexpensive, starting at about 20 Euros per day. However, finding a parking spot can be a challenge. In-house parking is common but comes with a considerable fee. In some areas, the cost of parking can be as high as the rent for the car itself.


German brands are common but not the majority; Asian brands dominate due to their lower prices. While Dubai is known as a city for the wealthy, the majority of its residents are not and must be resourceful. The only essential requirement for a car here is that the air conditioning works properly.


Heavy traffic in Deira, the old part of Dubai


As an EU citizen, tourists can drive with their national driver's license. However, once residency is obtained and the Emirates ID is issued, driving on a foreign license becomes illegal, and one must obtain a local license. EU citizens (and some other nationalities) are privileged in that they do not need to take a driving test; they simply pay a fee (about 250 Euros, including an eye test) to get their local license, provided they already have a valid license from their home country.


Accommodation

How one lives is probably the biggest factor influencing costs in Dubai. Since I arrived, I have been staying at a hostel. Despite being in one of the most popular areas of Dubai, Marina/Jumeirah Beach Residence, I pay 15 Euros per night. I doubt you could find accommodation in any German city at that rate. Of course, this means I’m not alone, and privacy is limited, but my standards are low, and I was fortunate to find a hostel that meets my needs, even though the first one I stayed in for about six weeks was much worse. Additionally, during the low season, the hostel is quite empty, providing more space for the few guests.


JBR-Marina, my temporary home


One might wonder if I could find a decent room in an apartment for a similar price, but I think the answer is no. If such a room were available, it would likely be very remote, making it difficult to rely on public transportation and harder to socialize. In areas dominated by skyscrapers, it is common for apartments to be studios, meaning the kitchen, living room, and bedroom are combined into one room, and the apartment is generally small. Including utilities (which I find expensive compared to Germany), rates for such studios might start at around 1,500 Euros per month. Sharing apartments to reduce rent is quite normal, though this results in a decrease in privacy. I have looked at rooms in shared apartments for about 500 Euros a month even in more remote areas, but a room of about 8 square meters without windows didn’t appeal to me, so I preferred to stay in the hostel until I can afford proper accommodation.


It goes without saying that luxurious apartments are available at much higher prices, but since they are beyond my budget, I haven’t looked into them.


Food and Beverages

The selection in supermarkets is similar to those is Germany


In Germany, I enjoyed visiting farmers' markets for fresh fruit and vegetables. This is uncommon in Dubai due to the heat, so fruit and vegetables are typically sold in supermarkets. Besides the large hypermarkets, there are small shops throughout the city, many of which are open 24/7, as are many restaurants. Many items in supermarkets are cheaper than in Germany, with few exceptions. Prices can vary significantly between stores, so it pays to explore and compare. The influence of expats on the local economy means that the selection of products is not significantly different from what I was used to.


The biggest supermarkets offer much more than just prepacked food


Dubai has an excessive delivery culture, with most shops and restaurants offering such services, often without additional fees. As an international melting pot, Dubai offers a vast array of culinary options. However, I primarily visit Indian restaurants due to their low prices. Indians and Pakistanis make up a significant portion of Dubai’s population, and their influence is evident everywhere. The prices at Indian restaurants are so low that it sometimes feels more economical than cooking at home. Additionally, many small shops along the roads offer Indian-style street food, which is typically deep-fried.


Even small supermarkets are often open 24/7 and deliver orders without additional fees


Alcohol is legal, but shops selling it are somewhat discreet, as if the public is expected to pretend it doesn’t exist. Personal information is collected, so while tourists can buy alcohol by showing their passports, residents must obtain a license, which is a mere formality. Drinking in public is forbidden, but there are plenty of bars and clubs in popular areas of the city. Alcohol can also be consumed in most hotels.


Apart from rent, going out is the second biggest expense that is significantly higher than in Germany. A drink at a bar or club usually costs at least 10 Euros. Happy hours are common and somewhat reduce the price, but going out remains a costly endeavor. Inside these venues, one wouldn’t necessarily feel they are in an Arab country with theoretically more conservative laws and values than Europeans are accustomed to, but tourists are likely to face little restraint.

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